More than anything else, Nepal is best known for its mountains and mountaineering. Nowhere else on earth you can find such a concentration of high snow capped mountains and have the opportunity to climb some of the highest peaks in the world. Of course, Everest immediately comes to mind when people think of Nepal but what is less often known is that Nepal is home to another seven peaks over 8000 meters and innumerable others between six and eight thousand meters. Currently 326 peaks are available for expeditions with and additional 33 minor peaks being designated as “Trekking Peaks”.
The climbing of the scheduled expedition peaks, in Nepal, is required by HMG/N Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, (MOCTCA), whose postal address is Singha Durbar, Kathmandu, Nepal. The mountaineering section of MOCTCA is located at the Tourist Service Centre in Bhrikuti Mandap and is open during office hours throughout the year. However, for some peaks Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) also grants permission for expedition.
Various financial and environmental guarantees must be given and a permit is then issued upon payment of the appropriate royalty. For all expedition peaks, exceeding 6500 meters elevation, a government appointed liaison officer is deputed to accompany the team to base camp for the duration of the expedition. For all peaks with less than 6500 meter elevation, do not require liaison officer. The primary function of this liaison officer is to ensure that the mountaineering regulations and laws of Nepal are adhered to. The complete details of the regulations and fees for mountaineering expeditions are contained in the government publication “Some Provisions Relating to Mountain Tourism in Nepal”.
The fees payable for permission to attempt any of the scheduled peaks can be divided up as follows:Royalty
The royalty fees range from US$1500 for peaks below 6500 meters to US$70,000 for the normal route on Everest. These prices are for groups containing a maximum of seven members. Additional members, up to a maximum group size of twelve, can be added for an additional fee. For three years, from 2002, the fees for a number of rarely attempted peaks have been waived or heavily reduced. Details can be obtained from trekking agencies or the Mountaineering Section of MOCTCA. The permit to climb any of the scheduled peaks includes any trekking permit that may be required to access the base campsite.Liasion Officer
Many peaks do not require a Liasion officer. However, wherever required, the expedition team must cover all costs of the Liasion officer. This includes wages, equipment allowance, transport, food and accommodation for the entire expedition period. The Liasion officer must also be insured against accident.Environment Deposit
Expeditions attempting peaks in the Khumbu region must deposit US$4000 for Everest, US$3000 for other 8000 meter peaks and US$2000 for peaks less than 8000 meters. This is refundable upon the team removing all garbage at the completion of the expedition.Radio and Telephone permits
Operating licenses must be obtained and paid for at the Ministry of Information and Communication in Singha Durbar for the use of two - way radios and satellite telephones.Filming permits
An expedition wishing to make documentary films of their climbs must obtain government permission from the Ministry of Information and Communication in Singha Durbar and pay a permit fee, the amount of which depends on the nationality of the filmmakers.Preparation
Most of the local preparation for an expedition will be carried out by the trekking agency appointed to represent the team. In most cases all of the required documents can be submitted to the various government agencies in advance so that there is minimal delay in issuing the necessary permits once the team arrives.
The agency will also, in most cases, arrange much of the equipment, food and fuel and engage all of the required local staff.Staff
Staff will be hired through our agency. MAT will arrange insurance, wages and equipment allowances and also complete other formalities such as filling of forms.Seasons
Expeditions can be carried out throughout the year. For the highest peaks the latter part of the spring season is the most popular since weather and snow conditions are more predictable at this time. Winter season is sometimes possible but weather conditions usually make successful attempts unlikely.